Riding the Roads as the Romans Do “On a Vespa”

By JESSICA DONATI

Remo Cassella A Vespa scooter rider on the streets of Rome.

Rome Italy

How do Romans get that extra kick between espressos? They hop on a Vespa, take a deep breath and plunge into the city’s famously chaotic traffic. If the idea makes your hair stand on end, renting one of the motor scooters may not be for you. But if you know your way around on two wheels back home, once you get going, you’ll find there is an elaborate code of order on the roads.

“We get lots of Americans,” said Bruno Zarlenga, the owner of Barberini Scooters for Rent (Via della Purificazione 84; 39-06-48-85-485; www.rentscooter.it), which opened in 1979. “They are usually very enthusiastic when they get back.” Maps are provided, guided tours can be booked in advance, and for 40 euros (about $60 at $1.53 to the euro), a small scooter is yours for the day. The Colosseum is just down the road, and there’s a certain satisfaction to be had in joining irreverent Romans as they roar past relics of the old empire without looking twice.

Elsewhere, try OnRoad (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 204; 39-06-481-5669; www.scooterhire.it), just a straight line over the river to St. Peter’s and the Vatican; scooters are rented by the hour (starting at 8 euros for a small scooter) and even delivered to your hotel. Not much beats whizzing toward St Peter’s Square at night, skidding to a halt before the magnificently illuminated cathedral face and, best of all, having the whole thing pretty much to yourself.

The best deal may be at Motorito’s Way (Via Germanico 38), where, for 60 euros, the scooter is yours for 24 hours — but don’t expect much more than a smile and possibly a map.

A few pointers. In Rome the Vespa scooter takes precedence over the car — largely thanks to decades of reckless teens ingraining four-wheeled motorists with a healthy fear of killing them. Drivers have been trained to watch out for mad bikers, and chances are they’ll spot you as well. A little toot of the horn means “hi” or “thanks”; longer ones mean you aren’t happy. Lanes? If you’re driving a scooter, any space in the road is a lane — use this to your advantage.

It’s expected.